Mysore, December 19 2008

Today is my second day in Mysore. Mysore is not extremelly exciting. There is a nice Maharaja Palace, a colorful market (great) and the 1000 stair uphill walk that leads you to a famous temple (Chamundi Hill)
I'm in Hotel Dasaprakesh which is a very nice, simple but old Indian hotel. It seems that many years ago this was a very luxurous place. Today it is kind of old. Everything in the room is quite old, but works. I have a bathroom and shower with hot water (my 1st hot shower in a month).My plan was to meet here my two German friends Vera and Lisa which I met in Hampi and maybe go with them to Kerala (Cochin 1st). It seems that Lisa got food sick and they will come later to Mysore. I was a bit depressed in the beginning. Not many tourists, not very exciting place.
But as I've been saying, everyday is a new day. The 1st highlight was an India restaurant which I found serving amazing Indian food. I ate a delicios Dosa. Then in the Internet cafe, the only one around I met Danielle's, Yoel's 1st girl friend. What a small world, here in Mysore to met her after so many years. She is travelling with her sister and some other Israeli guys/gals.
As I don't like to be alone, I'm becoming pretty good at approaching other tourists to get together.
Suddenly I see this western woman in the streets, and I ask her if she wants my company to do something together. Her name is Tania and she is from Germany. It was the end of the afternoon. So we go walking for a while and then sit in a restaurant, have a beer, etc.
Destiny is that Tania's room is beside mine. So we become friends and decide to do sight-seeing together the next morning. Its being wonderful, she is a social worker and has been on a volunteering assignment in India. She lived with an Indian family for 2.5 months and is now just on vacation. She is from Berlin. She is an angel in looks, talking, etc. Soft and easy willing to try food and everything else. She is going to Gokarna, another famous beach. Not in Goa but in the state of Karnataka. The beach is supposed to be much quieter and more authentic than Goa's beaches. So I decided to change my route and I'm going to Gokarna too. She left yesterday, I'm going tonight. Amazing people you meet here. Meanwhile another German woman joined us (living in Switzerland) Benedetta, and I'm spending the day with her. It much more enjoyable if you are not alone.
Yesterday we spent many hours going to this temple on the top of the hill. It is a 1000 stairs uphill which supposedly the pilgrims use. We decided to walk up, and it was amazing. We found on the way tens of monkeys, very friendly. I took many pictures feeding them, giving them to drink. It was so nice. Then we went to the market, where the colors of the fruits, flowers, vegetables, the smell of the Insense, the people make this place be magic. At some point I felt
in a drug trip with the scenery and the atmosphere.
So tonight I'm taking an 8 hour train to Mangalore and then a 7 hour bus to Gokarna.
After a while you get used to this long trips, not always confortable but part of the experience of travelling in India. So most probably Christman and New Year will be in Gokarna.

Hampi, December 16 2008

Wow the more I see things in Hampi I'm more impressed. This place is just amazing. And I'm meeting such interesting places.
Yesterday I decided to go to the royal enclave. It is about 3 KM walk from the Hampy Bazaar where I'm staying. On my way over there, in a place where very few tourists are seen I meet this young danish woman Julii walking in the same direction. I start small talking with her, whether she is going to the royal enclave, and she says that she is just walking to next village where she wants to take a bus to the Hospet where she is staying. Also that she is just killing time, as her bus leaves at 10:30 PM (It was 3:30 PM or so). So we start talking, and she comes with me sight-seeing in the royal enclave, then we go back to Hampi for dinner and eventually we spend 5 hours talking and going around. This is the amazing thing about being in India, from nowhere, unplanned you meet such amazing people which makes your travel much more enjoyable, specially in my case as I'm travelling alone.
This morning I decided to go to other side of the river. You take a little boat which crosses the river in about 3 minutes. The objective was to get to a temple which people call the monkey's temple. On this side of the river, there are many guest houses, it is a bit cheaper, quieter and where most of the Israelis like to stay. Effectively you see many more signs in hebrew everywhere. On the way I met Vera from Germany. Vera was in the same guest house I was, but she moved to the other side of the river. She says that she is going for the 2nd time to the Monkey temple. So we go together on an 1.5 hour walk. Vera is such an interesting person and she actually worked with Monkeys in the Netherlands before. I was fortunate to meet her, as actually guided me around (Thanks Vera). Wow this is the most amazing place in Hampi.
Full of monkeys, which you can almost touch (as long as you give them a banana or water).
After you see the monkeys there is a 600 steps stair that brings you to a temple very high in the mountains. The view is just breath-taking. There are no words to describe the whole experience but WOW. It was a pleasure walk and a wonderful visit to this temple.Later I also met Vera's friend Lisa, they are travelling together.
They are also going to Mysore and we may meet there, possibly go to Kerala together.
As I've been saying, everyday is a new day. New places, new people, new experiences all that with this magic indian atmosphere in the background.
I'm so happy as I'm doing Yoga for about an hour in the mornings, and long walks during the day, therefore I'm keeping my shape. I'm also eating less which helps.
Tonight I'm going to Mysore on a 12 hour bus trip.
On attaching/detaching: One reflection I've been thinking about. You meet so many nice and interesting people, for a few hours, a days, a few days. With some you really become good friends or more. As people are always coming and going, there is always the separation part which is a bit sad on me. But then in the next day you meet someone else. All this forces to really think on enjoying today, this is a great learning experience which teaches you to accept things as they are, the happiness of meeting some nice people, but also the sadness of having to say good bye.

Hampi, December 14, 2008

Wow Hampi is just amazing. This place is magic. The scenery is just unbelievable with the many temples and boulders every where.
Good pictures here
Hampi, was the medieval capital of the Hindu empire Vijayanagara (the City of Victory).
Hampi in the Karnataka state of India is listed as one of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
It has large stretches of boulder-strewn hills make the backdrop of Hampi unique. Around the hills and valleys are 500 plus monuments. Among them are beautiful temples, basement of palaces, remains of aquatic structures, ancient market streets, royal pavilions, bastions, royal platforms, treasury buildings.., the list is practically endless.
The city is very sacred for the Hindi and full of pilgrims. In special today (sunday) due to the full moon a huge festival it is very crowded with pilgrims which come to the various temples and to bathe on the river.

The overall atmosphere and scenery is breathtaking.
I'm staying in the Shanti Guest House, which is right across the big temple where most of the action happens. Pilgrims even sleep in the temple during the night on the floor.
The guest house is in the middle of the action, but at the same time quiet and a bit isolated. It has this very nice internal garden which is an island of silence in the middle of this chaos of people, cows, pigs, monkeys, etc, etc.
In principle you can see the main sites in about two days, but the atmosphere is conquering and invites you to stay longer.
Yesterday I went for a bike ride of about 12+ KMs with my British/Uruguayan friend. It was amazing and very pleasant. You bike very slow on this magic place while at the same time going through small authentic Indian villages. In those place we (whites) are really and attraction and everybody wants to shake our hands or take a picture with us.
Many small guest houses and restaurants in the area. Many roof-tops where you can sit, watch the chaos from the top and enjoy amazing views. The food is excellent. In principle no alcohol is allowed in this sacred place, but many places serve special drinks (vodka and so) and also we found a place which had beers.
Lots of backpackers just come and enjoy the energy, while chilling down with books, etc on the guest houses.
In the main temple nearby they have an amazing elephant, Laxmi. People give Laxmi 1 rupee coins, the elephant will take the coin, give to his master and salute people very gently in the head with his tromp. Sometime people come with kids in their hands, give two coins and Laxmi will salute both people. Very clever elephant. The kids love it.
I'm still touched by everything that is happening here. I'll probably stay two more nights and decide where to go next. WOW

Hampi, November 12, 2008

I'm finally in Hampi. After a long and surrealistic trip of 18 hours.
I left Mapusa at about 3:00 PM as the bus was supposed to leave at 6:30. Waited in Mapusa about 1:30 hours and then the bus which is a pick-up bus arrives at around 7:30 and takes us to Panjim where the final bus was waiting. So we leave from there about 8:30. Fortunately I had a seat with no one sitting beside me. Actually they did have sleeper for singles, only two. But I did not know. The bus is very old, and air-conditioning is opening of the windows. Not too bad as it is not very hot, but air pollution is a hassle. The bus was full of foreigners including many Israelis. So company was very good. I also met a nice British woman which lives in Montevideo and became friends with her.
The trip is surrealistic. The bus goes very slow, while crossing cities there are lots of street bumps which slow it down even further. At about 3:00 AM in the morning the bus stops and the responsible person tells us that there is a traffic jam. It is unbelievable. You get out of the bus and the whole road which is not very wide is completely blocked by trucks on both sides. The thing is completely clogged and nothing moves. We stayed the whole night for 6 hours waiting until things started to move. So instead of getting to Hampi at 7:00 AM we got to Hampi at about 3:00 PM. I got to a nice guest house called Shanti Guest house. I joined some other people I met in the bus. It does not have a toiled and shower in the room but is very clean, nice and very cheap. It is also located in a great location. Hampi is just amazing. The temples are breath-taking and there natural rock bolsters just unbelievable. Now I downloaded all my pictures to a CD which I'll send soon be able to send.
Overall I'm tired but the place is quite amazing and well worth the trip. Will see how many days I stay here.

Goa, Aranbol, November 11, 2008

It is just amazing that I'm already one month in India. At the beginning I was thinking what I would do in 9 weeks, and it is passing very fast and I'm already starting to feel that it will be two short. Specially when I meet people that are here for 6 months, 1 years, etc.
So I left my guest house and I'm on my way to the bus station in Mapusa (pronounced Mapsa) which is just ~30 KM from here, but the bus takes an hour. From Mapusa to Hampi is probably 500 km and the bus takes 12 hours. This is India pace, average of busses and trains is 50 KM/h.
The roads are typically very bad and everything is veryyyyyyyyyy slow.
All the young Israelis in the Internet cafes are hysterically being called by their families to go back home or to leave Goa. As the foreign department in Israel is warning against traveling to Goa in this holiday season. I'm not too concerned. Following the Mumbai attacks there is much more awareness of the local police and authorities and as Goa is the most touristic state in India, they are very alert to any attack possibility. My own judgment is that Aranbol would be less likely a target as it has NO hotels and resorts at all. It is all cheap budget guest houses. I'd imagine that terrorists would rather attack a more flashy hotel. In any case, this is my rational to be calm.
So I'm leaving Aranbol today but after Hampi there is a likelihood that I'll come back. At least to somewhere in Goa. More and more I'm enjoying, the longer you stay the more you get acquainted with the interesting people and spots.
A few days ago I found a very cheap little eatery which many westerners sit. You can have a nice Tally and few SHAIs for around 60 rupee (1.5$). Also I found that the people sitting in this place are very nice and they blend on the few tables. There I met a couple from Portugal. Jose which is Portuguese and Tomoko which is Japanese and leaved in Brazil. She is Jose's girl friend. She is a very short little Japanese which speaks Portuguese with a Brazilian accent. Very nice people.
I went there around 6:30 PM for a Shai (Milk tea) and suddenly someone from Germany joined us and I stayed for 3 hours talking to this people in this little spot. The German woman came for a year. All those long time travelers are always traveling on a very low budget, so they come to this cheap places.
After that I went to a another restaurant, which had some amazing live music. The place is called sports bar. As they play on a big screen sports. I come for a little while to watch and stayed till 3:30 AM. At 1:30 AM the Champions league games started and watched the Arsenal / Porto game. Meanwhile I talked to many different people, including the singers which many have interesting story and interesting lives.
So this is Aranbol, very lively, never a dull moment.
I'm profiting that I don't have a room anymore to enjoy the A/C in the Internet Cafe and write my blog. But soon I'll start my long journey to Hampi.

Goa: Aranbol, December 09, 2008

Today I completed my Yoga class. Overall it was very nice. Quite challenging and difficult but
very worth as the teacher Sharrat is really amazing and gave me and the class basic concepts of yoga that you don't learn in every place. The class was good today I made progress on my headstands and I'm mostly able to go on by myself. I bought the ropes necessary to do the headstands at home. A bit heavy to carry but I'm not sure I could find them in Israel.

Other than that I enjoy a lot the live music which is almost daily in a different place.
Yesterday it was electronic music from a group called Electronic Traffic. They are just amazing.
http://profile.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=user.viewProfile&friendID=388336567

I've already seen them before.
They are amazing, the play here and in Ibiza. They are almost everyday in a different restaurant here. The most amazing thing was after 10:00 PM when officially no noise can be done.
The guys from the restaurant which was on the beach, lit a fire and everybody sat around the fire. All kinds of people which play different instruments, specially drums started playing. Others sing. Lots of candles are lit on the sand. It was just amazing and so spontaneous.
I have found my winning formula for feeling great. A kingfisher beer (630 ML) and an Indian vodka (Romanov). After those I feel really good and in tune. I'm whistling a lot with the pace of the music and nobody tells me to shut-up.

More and more I'm becoming friendly with the dogs which are everywhere. Some already recognize me and approach me.
I found a place which has a wonderful Fish-Tally for 40 rupees.
What can I say, life is good.

The big dilemma is to stay here or move to Hampi. I had planned to move tomorrow, but decided to postpone at least a day (maybe more). The routine here is so pleasant. The inertia is keeping me longer.

Goa:Aranbol, November 6th 2008

Today was my 3rd day in the Yoga class and I'm really proud of myself. I'm doing head-stands hanging from a rope on the ceiling. I manage to get up on a head-stand and holding myself a bit.
The teacher Sharrat is amazing, he is so good explaining the details and how everything is so based on the legs. Spreading and extending the fingers, and pushing the heels to the floor, this makes the whole difference.
I'm in a class with 10-15 young Chinese woman and man. They are all so lean and flexible, it is amazing. One of them is the translator, therefore all the teacher's explanations have to be translated which makes the class longer. We start at 6:30 AM, we do head-stands, some flexibility exercises by ourselves and the teacher arrives at 7:00 AM. We go until about 10:30.
After Yoga I go back to my room, shower and go for my brunch about 11:00 AM.

Today I decided to try the Israeli breakfast. It had Lemon Nana drink. The drink is amazing, the probably put in the blender nana, lemon and ice. The drink is very green and tastes great. I've drunk this in Israel. Additionally it had hummus, a salad, eggs any style and a pita (a naan). All this for about 2$. Amazing, it was one of the best Israeli breakfasts I've even had, including in Israel. Everything is cooked and made on the spot with a lot of care.

More about the Indian dogs. Today at 6:15 when I went to my yoga, while it is still a bit dark outside, a dog was by my door. He saw the noise and the light on the silence of the night.
The dog was so friendly and happy and eager for some care. So I gave him some care, and for a while he became my dog. I walked for 15 minutes on the beach and he came with me all the time.
You see gangs of dogs walking with western people. Sounds that if you give the dogs some love (and maybe some food) they become your dogs, at least for a while.

Yesterday I was eager to go see again the Saturday night market. I drove to there with my scooter (for about 45 minutes) just to find that it had been canceled. The Indian authorities are quite concerned with terrorism after what happened in Mumbai. I'm starting to see a few Indian policeman going around in the beach. But they are not armed, and it is not clear what they can do against terrorists. They are so unprepared for it.