Mysore, December 19 2008

Today is my second day in Mysore. Mysore is not extremelly exciting. There is a nice Maharaja Palace, a colorful market (great) and the 1000 stair uphill walk that leads you to a famous temple (Chamundi Hill)
I'm in Hotel Dasaprakesh which is a very nice, simple but old Indian hotel. It seems that many years ago this was a very luxurous place. Today it is kind of old. Everything in the room is quite old, but works. I have a bathroom and shower with hot water (my 1st hot shower in a month).My plan was to meet here my two German friends Vera and Lisa which I met in Hampi and maybe go with them to Kerala (Cochin 1st). It seems that Lisa got food sick and they will come later to Mysore. I was a bit depressed in the beginning. Not many tourists, not very exciting place.
But as I've been saying, everyday is a new day. The 1st highlight was an India restaurant which I found serving amazing Indian food. I ate a delicios Dosa. Then in the Internet cafe, the only one around I met Danielle's, Yoel's 1st girl friend. What a small world, here in Mysore to met her after so many years. She is travelling with her sister and some other Israeli guys/gals.
As I don't like to be alone, I'm becoming pretty good at approaching other tourists to get together.
Suddenly I see this western woman in the streets, and I ask her if she wants my company to do something together. Her name is Tania and she is from Germany. It was the end of the afternoon. So we go walking for a while and then sit in a restaurant, have a beer, etc.
Destiny is that Tania's room is beside mine. So we become friends and decide to do sight-seeing together the next morning. Its being wonderful, she is a social worker and has been on a volunteering assignment in India. She lived with an Indian family for 2.5 months and is now just on vacation. She is from Berlin. She is an angel in looks, talking, etc. Soft and easy willing to try food and everything else. She is going to Gokarna, another famous beach. Not in Goa but in the state of Karnataka. The beach is supposed to be much quieter and more authentic than Goa's beaches. So I decided to change my route and I'm going to Gokarna too. She left yesterday, I'm going tonight. Amazing people you meet here. Meanwhile another German woman joined us (living in Switzerland) Benedetta, and I'm spending the day with her. It much more enjoyable if you are not alone.
Yesterday we spent many hours going to this temple on the top of the hill. It is a 1000 stairs uphill which supposedly the pilgrims use. We decided to walk up, and it was amazing. We found on the way tens of monkeys, very friendly. I took many pictures feeding them, giving them to drink. It was so nice. Then we went to the market, where the colors of the fruits, flowers, vegetables, the smell of the Insense, the people make this place be magic. At some point I felt
in a drug trip with the scenery and the atmosphere.
So tonight I'm taking an 8 hour train to Mangalore and then a 7 hour bus to Gokarna.
After a while you get used to this long trips, not always confortable but part of the experience of travelling in India. So most probably Christman and New Year will be in Gokarna.

Hampi, December 16 2008

Wow the more I see things in Hampi I'm more impressed. This place is just amazing. And I'm meeting such interesting places.
Yesterday I decided to go to the royal enclave. It is about 3 KM walk from the Hampy Bazaar where I'm staying. On my way over there, in a place where very few tourists are seen I meet this young danish woman Julii walking in the same direction. I start small talking with her, whether she is going to the royal enclave, and she says that she is just walking to next village where she wants to take a bus to the Hospet where she is staying. Also that she is just killing time, as her bus leaves at 10:30 PM (It was 3:30 PM or so). So we start talking, and she comes with me sight-seeing in the royal enclave, then we go back to Hampi for dinner and eventually we spend 5 hours talking and going around. This is the amazing thing about being in India, from nowhere, unplanned you meet such amazing people which makes your travel much more enjoyable, specially in my case as I'm travelling alone.
This morning I decided to go to other side of the river. You take a little boat which crosses the river in about 3 minutes. The objective was to get to a temple which people call the monkey's temple. On this side of the river, there are many guest houses, it is a bit cheaper, quieter and where most of the Israelis like to stay. Effectively you see many more signs in hebrew everywhere. On the way I met Vera from Germany. Vera was in the same guest house I was, but she moved to the other side of the river. She says that she is going for the 2nd time to the Monkey temple. So we go together on an 1.5 hour walk. Vera is such an interesting person and she actually worked with Monkeys in the Netherlands before. I was fortunate to meet her, as actually guided me around (Thanks Vera). Wow this is the most amazing place in Hampi.
Full of monkeys, which you can almost touch (as long as you give them a banana or water).
After you see the monkeys there is a 600 steps stair that brings you to a temple very high in the mountains. The view is just breath-taking. There are no words to describe the whole experience but WOW. It was a pleasure walk and a wonderful visit to this temple.Later I also met Vera's friend Lisa, they are travelling together.
They are also going to Mysore and we may meet there, possibly go to Kerala together.
As I've been saying, everyday is a new day. New places, new people, new experiences all that with this magic indian atmosphere in the background.
I'm so happy as I'm doing Yoga for about an hour in the mornings, and long walks during the day, therefore I'm keeping my shape. I'm also eating less which helps.
Tonight I'm going to Mysore on a 12 hour bus trip.
On attaching/detaching: One reflection I've been thinking about. You meet so many nice and interesting people, for a few hours, a days, a few days. With some you really become good friends or more. As people are always coming and going, there is always the separation part which is a bit sad on me. But then in the next day you meet someone else. All this forces to really think on enjoying today, this is a great learning experience which teaches you to accept things as they are, the happiness of meeting some nice people, but also the sadness of having to say good bye.

Hampi, December 14, 2008

Wow Hampi is just amazing. This place is magic. The scenery is just unbelievable with the many temples and boulders every where.
Good pictures here
Hampi, was the medieval capital of the Hindu empire Vijayanagara (the City of Victory).
Hampi in the Karnataka state of India is listed as one of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
It has large stretches of boulder-strewn hills make the backdrop of Hampi unique. Around the hills and valleys are 500 plus monuments. Among them are beautiful temples, basement of palaces, remains of aquatic structures, ancient market streets, royal pavilions, bastions, royal platforms, treasury buildings.., the list is practically endless.
The city is very sacred for the Hindi and full of pilgrims. In special today (sunday) due to the full moon a huge festival it is very crowded with pilgrims which come to the various temples and to bathe on the river.

The overall atmosphere and scenery is breathtaking.
I'm staying in the Shanti Guest House, which is right across the big temple where most of the action happens. Pilgrims even sleep in the temple during the night on the floor.
The guest house is in the middle of the action, but at the same time quiet and a bit isolated. It has this very nice internal garden which is an island of silence in the middle of this chaos of people, cows, pigs, monkeys, etc, etc.
In principle you can see the main sites in about two days, but the atmosphere is conquering and invites you to stay longer.
Yesterday I went for a bike ride of about 12+ KMs with my British/Uruguayan friend. It was amazing and very pleasant. You bike very slow on this magic place while at the same time going through small authentic Indian villages. In those place we (whites) are really and attraction and everybody wants to shake our hands or take a picture with us.
Many small guest houses and restaurants in the area. Many roof-tops where you can sit, watch the chaos from the top and enjoy amazing views. The food is excellent. In principle no alcohol is allowed in this sacred place, but many places serve special drinks (vodka and so) and also we found a place which had beers.
Lots of backpackers just come and enjoy the energy, while chilling down with books, etc on the guest houses.
In the main temple nearby they have an amazing elephant, Laxmi. People give Laxmi 1 rupee coins, the elephant will take the coin, give to his master and salute people very gently in the head with his tromp. Sometime people come with kids in their hands, give two coins and Laxmi will salute both people. Very clever elephant. The kids love it.
I'm still touched by everything that is happening here. I'll probably stay two more nights and decide where to go next. WOW